Fattoria Selvapiana, “Villa Petrognano” Pomino Rosso 2013 (about $22)
Italian Wine for january, 2020
Fattoria Selvapiana is located in the municipality of Rufina which is about 20 miles east of downtown Florence in the foothills of the Apennines. The town itself is the traditional and geographic heart of the Chianti Rufina DOCG appellation that is generally regarded as the most famous - and also among the smallest - of the seven subzones that comprise the iconic Chianti DOCG. Its wines are held in high regard and generally valued more highly than those from other Chianti DOCG subzones.
Due to its inland location in the foothills of the Apennines, Chianti Rufina vineyards have the highest elevation of any in Tuscany, ranging from about 1,300 to 1,600 feet above sea level. At this elevation they have what is considered continental weather with warm but not hot days and relatively cool nighttime temperatures. This special micro-climate provides a longer ripening period for grapes with higher acidity that accords wines greater structure and power as well as enhanced ageing potential.
Founded by the Giuntini family in 1827, the Selvapiana estate has remained family-owned and operated to the present day. It has approximately 145 acres under vine and produces a small number of dry red and white Chianti Rufina wines in addition to a sweet Vin Santo. The winery follows organic farming practices and is certified organic.
Selvapiana also rents 13 acres of vineyards from the nearby Villa Petrognano which lie in the Pomino DOC zone. The Pomino DOC is one of the most historic appellations in Tuscany and also one of the smallest – even smaller than the Chianti Rufina DOCG – and partially overlaps the Chianti Rufina DOCG to the west.
Pomino was granted DOC status in 1983 and is generally regarded as a premium wine producing area. Nonetheless, Pomino DOC wines remain relatively unknown to all except the most avid wine cognoscenti who hold its complex, concentrated and long-lived wines in high esteem.
Fattoria Selvapiana’s 2013 "Villa Petrognano" Pomino Rosso is a blend of 60 percent Sangiovese and 20 percent each Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. All the grapes are sourced from its rented vineyards on the nearby Petrognano estate in the Pomino DOC zone.
The three varieties are harvested separately with the Merlot harvested in mid-September and the Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon in early October. The wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks with natural yeasts and then separately aged for 2 years in French oak barriques for the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and large French oak casks for the Sangiovese. The alcohol level of the finished wine is 14 percent.
The 2013 Villa Petrognano opens with dark, ripe berry and earthy mushroom aromas that fairly leap from the glass. It is full-bodied, plush and rich with dark cherry and cassis flavors, good acidity and a touch of spice that gives lift to the long finish. It’s a delicious, complex wine just now coming into its own and built to go the distance.
This exuberant wine begs to be served with well-sauced pasta dishes, grilled lamb shanks, slow-cooked beef stew, steaks prepared any which way and aged but not spicy cheeses.
©Richard Marcis
January 9, 2020
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